| All of us have ideas about tree planting that that we follow almost superstitiously. Many of us aren't even sure where these habits originated in our gardening knowledge.
According to Mr. Begeman, of the rituals we follow, some may not only be of little value, but may even have negative affects on our new trees!
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A tree's root system is a
mirror image of the above
ground growth.
According to Mr. Begeman, it has been proven in studies
beginning in the 1930s that "regardless of species, climate
or geographic location, tree roots consistently grow shallow
and wide." Lateral and feeder roots are "one and a
half to four times the width of the canopy and are usually within
the top 2 feet of soil." Due to diminished oxygen and moisture,
and increased density of soil, tree roots find it easier and
more nourishing to stay close to the surface. Apparently the
benefits out-weigh the risk of being blown over in a storm. |
Planting holes should always
be as deep and big around as possible to encourage root establishment.
This practice is only half right! Because tree roots
stay close to the surface anyway, there is no need to loosen
the soil under the tree's root ball. As a matter of fact, doing
so causes the entire tree to settle as the soil sinks back under
the weight of the tree and absorbs moisture. This can cause the
root collar tissue at the junction of the roots and the trunk
to come into contact with the soil. Because this portion of the
tree is not specialized for moisture resistance, the tree is
left vulnerable to disease and rot.
Digging the hole as wide as possible (three to five
times the width of the root ball is ideal), however, will aid
in the young tree's ability to become established.. |
Mixing compost into the
soil around a young tree will promote growth.
According to Mr. Begeman, over 30 studies have been conducted which have shown that the opposite is true. For one thing, organic matter shrinks over time, causing the settling problem to occur. In addition, one of the main barriers of root growth when planting a tree is the difference in the soil surrounding the root ball and the soil type on site. Roots have a difficult time crossing over to the new. Therefore, adding yet another variable to the mix only serves to complicate matters for the tree. It's best to add mulch and compost to the top of the area surrounding the tree once it is planted. |
Prune buds and young leaves
to "balance top growth with existing roots."
This practice backfires by re-ducing photosynthesis, sugars and carbohydrates necessary for plant growth. While pruning does encourage individual branches to grow, the overall effect is stunting.
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Pruning paint and other
sealants should always be used to cover raw cuts on trees.
For a variety of reasons, from sealing out moisture
to protection from disease, the tradition has always been to
paint any exposed cut when pruning trees. This practice actually
causes the opposite effect of that intended. Because sealants
are never 100% impervious, they actually can allow small amounts
of moisture and disease to penetrate, and then be held in place
by the very protective sealants applied to resist them. |
Myth #6
When pruning, branches should
be cut flush with the surface
of the bark.
In an effort to prevent decay and aid wound closure, many people have thought they were helping their trees by carefully making cuts as close to the surface as possible. This is just another harmful practice. According to Mr. Begeman, "much of today's pruning doesn't take into account the importance of the branch bark collar, which is where the branch joins the trunk." Sometimes difficult to distinguish in some species, this area appears slightly swollen at the base of a branch, and contains chemicals vital to protecting the tree from disease and decay.
The collar actually aids in the tree's ability to make a speedy recovery, so cuts should always be made to the outside of this area, thereby retaining the branch tissue and leaving the trunk undamaged.
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Myth #7
Hardpan layers should be
removed beneath the area
where a tree's root ball
will be placed.
Again, since the tree roots stay shallow, it is unnecessary
to provide the root system with this benefit. And the same settling
problem can also be caused in doing so. As long as there is several
inches of soil over the hardpan, the tree can be successfully
planted on top of it without removing it. |
So now you know! Both you and
your trees will benefit from these time and effort saving tidbits
of knowledge. There may be some who will argue when you try to
tell them what you know- what's important is that you and your
tree will know!
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1) Choose your site carefully.
Lots of people are going to be looking at your tree for many
years to come, so you should put some thought into the choice
you make.
Put a stake or shovel into the ground where you think you'd
like to plant your new tree, then look out the windows of your
house. Are your views nicely framed? Can you still see nicely
landscaped areas that you want to continue to see? Can you imagine
what the views will look like as the tree grows? How does the
placement look from the sidewalk and street? How will the tree
affect the walking paths, patios and play areas in your yard?
Will you have to move vegetable and flower gardens that now enjoy
full sun?
2) Choose your tree carefully.
Once you have decided WHERE you want your new tree to be,
you must decide what KIND of tree you want to have there! Your
decision should be based on the tree's location, as its potential
size will be of major importance to the setting. Other considerations
include fruits and seeds (you might not want a sweet gum dropping
sharp seed balls under your kids' swing set!), and whether you
want flowers and if so, their color. Is it good for wildlife
if that is important to you? How much care and maintenance will
it require as it matures?
3) Dig the hole.
With your newly purchased tree next to the site you have chosen,
dig a hole as deep as the depth of the root ball, and as wide
as you like (3-5 times the root ball diamter is ideal).
4) Place the tree in the hole and replace soil.
Make sure there are no air pockets around the root ball. The soil should be packed firmly around the root ball unless the soil is extremely wet.Use the excess sod and soil to build a small moat around the base of the new tree about the diameter of the tree's top diameter. This will hold moisture and direct it to the young tree's roots, especially if the soil is clay.
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5) Mulch.
Applying a thick layer of mulch around the base of your new
tree will help it retain moisture, which is very important as
it makes the transition to its permanent home and adjusts from
the shock of handling and being moved. Using compost to mulch
adds beneficial nutrients.
6) Water frequently and deeply until your tree is established.
For the first week or two, with few exceptions and depending
on the weather, you will need to water your new tree twice weekly.
Fill the basin formed by your sod several times and let it soak
in, or leave the hose on at a trickle for an hour or so. Once
established, water weekly. Apply chemical fertilizer if desired
according to product instructions.
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